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LETTER XXXr. "^i^fe^ 



Arthur Mlddleton to his Brother Edwin, 

Si. Johis, on Lake Champluin. 

Dear Edwin, 

A PROMISE, ray dear Edwin, should 
always be observed : I hasten (o fal/il mine, and 
give 3'ou the particulars of our journey from 
Albany to Lake Champlain. 

Cohoz is a small village, which is distinguished 
by the neighbourhood of a remarkable fall in the 
Mohawk river. Though a cataract is no great 
novelty for me, I was charmed with the sublimity 
of this, which difters in many respects from most I 
bad before seen. The breadth of the river is three 
hundred yards ; a ledge of rocks extends quite 
across it, and from the top of them, the water 
falls about fifty feet perpendicularly. The appear- 
ance of this grand' spectacle varies according to 
the quantity of water : after heavy rains, it de- 
scends in an unbroken sheet, from one bank io 
the other; ^vh list, at other times, the greater part 
of the dark-coloured rocks are visible. Following, 
the direction of the Hudsorf rivet",, we came io. 
Stillwater, a place that receives its name from the 
uncommon tranquillity of that part of the stream 

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jopposUe to it. We were slopped an liour or two 
by some mineral springs upon the borders of a 
marslr. Each of thcni is contained in ihe crater 
of a pjrainidal rock, about a man's height. The 
rocks seem to have been formed by the petrifaction 
of the water, and the water within them is generally 
below the rim of t!ie mouth ot the rock : it 
bubbfes up, as if boiling; and at the beginning 
of the summer, regularly overflows the bason. 
The guide sho\*ed us the properties of these springs 
in several experiments. They extinguish a ligtited 
-candle in an instant, and suffocate any animal 
that is put down into the rock ; but neither Mr, 
Franklin nor myself could suffer any creature 
capable of feeling, to be tormented for our amuse- 
ment. After having gratified our curiosity, we 
quickened our pace, and reached Saratoga before 
the close of evening. It consists of a few detached 
houses, and a Dutch reformed church. This place 
excited no very flattering recollections in my mind, 
as being remarkable for the surrender of General 
Burgoyne. Whilst we were examining the remains 
of the encampments, with painful reflections on 
the ill success of our countrymen, a grey-headed 
American, perceiving we wCfe strangers, accosted 
IBS with a degree of national pride, perfiaps 
allowable, but not very agreeable to our sensations 
at that moment, and related the events of that 
tmfortmiate day. "There, gentlemen," said he, 
<« is the very spot where U\q British general 

delivered 



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delivered up his sword to our commander, General 
Gates." '* Sir," replied Mr. Franklin, with more 
asperity than I ever heard him s[3eak on any other 
occasion, " the next time you boast of the exploits 
of your countrymen, be sure that you know to wlioin 
you address yourself: we are Englishmen;" and 
hastily taking hold of my arm, abruptly withdrew^ 
The next day we renewed our journey, and ob- 
served that the woods of this part chiefly consist 
of different species of the oak, hiccory, hemlock, 
firs, and Weym.outh pines, which dialer from the 
tree of the same name in Europe. Amongst the 
under-wood are plenty of wild raspberries, which 
we found very refreshing. Wretched roads, made 
of the trunks of trees, brought us, by Fort Edward 
and Fort Anne, to Skenesborough, a town situ- 
ated on the borders of Lake Cham plain. Here Mr, 
Franklin hired a boat to convey us across the lake, 
and having provided two or three blankets and a 
basket of provisions, we set sail with a fair wind. 
Our voyage lasted several days, and was far more 
agreeable than being cooped up in a large vessel, 
on the ocean, where nothing is to be seen but the 
sky above, and a vast expanse of water around ; 
for we landed frequently, both for the sake of pro- 
curing refreshments, and observing the mode of 
life of the people who dwell in the scattered farm- 
houses that skirt the lake. Many of these arc 
wretched log-houses, that are scarcely a defence 
against the weather^ and so badly supplied with any 
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tliintr eatable, that we coulJ seldom obtain milk, 
eggs, or even bieacl. At night, we gencr.illy wrapt 
ourselves in our blankets, and lay down on the 
cabin floor. This mode of sleeping is not very 
comfortable, till use has reconciled it ; but \^ hen I 
am well tired in the day, 1 am not disturbed by the | 
hardness of njy bed. At Ticondcroga we enjoyed, 
with double relish, the comforts of a good inn, the 
only dwelling-house in the place. The agreeable 
accommodations arise from the good management 
of the mistress, who is always the active person, 
whilst the husband minds his larm or* other occu- 
pations. ; 
The ruins of the old fort and barracks are to be J 
seen on the top of a rising ground just behind the^ 
tavern ; but they are in such a state of decay as to 
be of no use, nor is there any probability of their 
being repaired. There are the remains of another 
fort at Grown Point, which has also been demolished. 
Some of the ditches are, however, perfect; which, 
with the ruined buildings, overgrown with different 
shrubs, partu uhirly ivy, combined with a view of 
the lake arsd the distant mountains rising beyond 
it, iiavc a fine effect. This prospect was rendered 
still more picturesque to us by a large birch canoe, 
full of Indians, in the dresses of their nation. Their 
skins were painted of various colours, and in the 
most whimsical manner: cne leg of the same man 
was white, whilst the other was daubed with green; 
liis body was bright yellow, and his face full ot^ red ^ 

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spots; and, to give liis countenance (he gi^eatcst 
pos ible fierceness, his eyes were of different colours. 
The others had indulged their tjistc with tlie same 
irreo:alarity ; and all were adorned with feathers, 
horse-hair, rings, and bracelets; and to complete 
their attire, each carried a small looking-glass, 
which was often consulted, in order to touch up the 
faded colours, or adjust their ornaments. 

In the course of oar voyage we were frequently 
regaled with magnificent landscapes from the shores, 
of hanging woods, rocks, and mountains; wlvich in 
(he evening received a rich glow from the reflection 
•.of (he setting sun, that at the same time gilded the 
' curling waters of the lake. The length of Lake 
Cham plain is an hundred and twenty miles, and its 
breadth from (uo to eighteen. In the widest part 
are a great number of islands : the largest of H.em. 
is called South Hero, and contains five hundred 
inhabitants. The brond lake feaches fifty miles, and 
terminates in a large river, named Sorelle, whitih is 
lost in the mighty St. Lawrence. I(s waters are of 
great depth, and the shore in many places moun- 
tainous and iockj'. The splashing of the waters 
into their chasms, make an uncomir-on, hollow, 
murmuring noise, when the wind rises to a breeze. 
Some of the rocks shelve under the watrr, at no 
great depth beneath it, as we experienced by a 
sudden shock, which convinced us that our boat 
had struck on one of (Iicra, All was confusion in a 
foment, and every one of us obliged to iiclp to 

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disengage her; in ^vliich we succeeded, with no 
greater niisfortur.e than a thorough drenching — a 
circumstance that obliged us to get ashore at the 
first house that would receive us. It was the 
dwelling of a plain Scotcli labourer, who also 
performed the functions of a judge. 

Having passed the boundary that separates the 
Uniled Stales Irom the British dominions, we 
reached a garrison town, called St. John's, whither 
the Indian parly had arrived before us. With 
them we perceived a middle-aged European, whose 
languishing, harassed countenance, hati something 
peculiarly interesting in it; especially, as with the 
traces of grief, was a mixture of calm resignation 
painted on his face. Mr. Franklin was so struck 
■with his appearance, that he sat down amongst 
tfaem, and insinuated himself into (heir favour. The 
jstranger seemed pleased with his attentions, but did 
not appear very communicative, till an opportunity 
occurred of conversing in private; when he related 
bis history, which is so long,^ it must be deferred to 
a future letter. Adieu. May every happiness 
attend you. 

ARTHUK MIDDLETON. 



LETTElt 



